The pilgrimage to Kailas-Manasarovar,
at 15,000 ft. above sea level, is one of the most challenging and
difficult of all pilgrimages. Swami Pranavanandaji (1896), a sannyasi,
completed 23 circumambulations of Mt. Kailas and 25 of Manasarovar.
In his pilgrimage in 1936-37 he spent a whole year and in 1943-44
spent a full 16 months by the shores of Manasarovar. From his experiences
he advises that anyone who has strong lungs, a sound heart and who
is not suffering from high blood pressure can undertake the journey.
Swami Pranavanandaji lists the articles needed for the Kailas-Manasarovar
pilgrimage in his book, Kailas-Manasarovar (p.181-184). He says that
22 types of clothes and wear, over 24 different medicines and 40 miscellaneous
articles are required.
Nilkanth Varni, on the other hand, travelled in the middle of winter,
with the barest of means and all by himself. To get an idea of Nilkanth's
austere pilgrimage, here is a list of what he had and the requirements
listed by Swami Pranavanandaji.
Nilkanth's
Possessions
Clothes: loincloth, waist-cloth, a filter cloth
Miscellaneous: a gourd (kamandal), mala
(rosary), Shaligram contained in a small cane case (batvo), deer skin
and staff.
Requirements
for Pilgrims
Clothes
1. 2 or 3 good woollen blankets. 2. Chutka (thick Tibetan blanket,
to be hired or bought at Garbyang or at Taklakot). 3. Bedding according
to one's own requirements. 4. 1 Woollen shirt. 5. 2 Woollen pyjamas
or trousers. 6. 1 Woollen sweater. 7. 2 Pairs of woollen stockings.
8. 1 Woollen muffler. 9. 1 Pair of woollen gloves 10. 1 Pair of pattis
for legs. 11. 1 Woollen balaclava cap (monkey-cap). 12. 1 Woollen
overcoat. 13. 1 Light waterproof coat. 14. 1 Waterproof covering for
the hat when one is taking a hat. 15. 2 or 3 Pieces of oil-cloth or
waterproof to cover the bedding and luggage. 16. 4 Cotton shirts.
17. 1 Pair of cotton pyjamas. 18. 1 Pair of dhotis. 19. 1 Pair of
towels. 20. 3 or 4 yards of spare cloth. 21. 1 Pair of strong full-boots,
preferably of canvas and one pair of ordinary shoes. 22. 1 Umbrella.
Medicines
1. Chlorodyne, Camphorodyne or Bismuth - for diarrhoea. 2. Salphagannidine
or Dover's powder - for dysentery. 3. For indigestion: Soda bicarb,
Bhaskar-lavan. 4. Fruit salt - for indigestion and free motion. 5.
Mepacrine or Palludrine tablets - for malaria. 6. For dressing wounds,
cuts, boils, etc.: Sticking plaster, Potassium Permanganate, Tincture
of Iodine, Acid Boric and Sulphanilamide powder, Absorbent cotton.
7. Rolled bandages. 8. A.B.C. liniment - for pain in joints. 9. Cafiaspirin
or Aspro - for headaches, slight indispositions, aching limbs, etc.
10. Influenza mixture. 11. Purgative pills. 12. Vaseline bottles -
for applying to face, nose, and hands in cold places. 13. Amritdhara
and Amrutanjan for all complaints. 14. For colds: Smelling salt, Vapex.
15. Ginger chips or some citrus articles - for billiousness. 16. J.J.
Dechen's People's Medical Service Set. 17. D.D.T. Powder - for bugs,
flies, lice, etc. 18. Carbolic acid or some other toothache cure.
19. Tooth-brush and tooth-powder. 20. Enema can or syringe. 21. Rubber
catheter. 22. Hot water bag. 23. Clinical Thermometer. 24. Cibazal
tablets - for pneumonia and bronchitis.
Miscellaneous
Articles
1. Torch light with spare batteries. 2. Candles. 3. Hurricane lantern.
4. Kashmiri Kangri (an earthen pot for holding fire, encased in an
indigenous willow-basket, generally carried under the long loose cloak,
for keeping the body warm; can be secured from some Kashmiri friend).
5. Stove with accessories including methylated spirit. 6. Kerosene
oil (to be taken from Almora). 7. Match boxes. 8. Portable cooking
vessels, ladle, dishes, plates, tea-kettle, cups, spoons, tiffin carrier,
etc. 9. Pressure, Ic-mic, Annapurna, or Rukmini Cooker (rice is not
well cooked in ordinary vessels at altitudes above 10,000 ft.) 10.
Thermos flask. 11. 2 Buckets or empty tins with handles - for fetching
and heating water on the way. 12. 1 or 2 light package boxes for keeping
vessels, kettle, cups, bottles, and such other breakables. 13. 1 Tin
with lock - for keeping sweets
and other eatables (often pilgrims complain
against servants for pilfering eatables). 14. 2 Gunny bags - for putting
the holdall and other boxes so as to be portable for carrying either
by coolies or ponies. 15. 2 Kit-bags with locking arrangement. 16.
6 Small cloth bags for bringing Kailas-incense and other articles
on the return journey. 17. 2 Ropes, each 20 feet long. 18. Knife.
19. A pair of scissors. 20. Hand axe. 21. 2 Locks 22. Soaps for bathing
and washing. 23. Stick with an iron point (to be bought at Haldwani
or Almora). 24. A pair of green goggles to protect eyes from snow-glare
and the effects of the severe cold winds. 25. Binocular. 26. One good
portable camera with sufficient number of roll films or film packs.
27. Kodak's magnesium ribbon holder, ordinary magnesium ribbon, or
flash powder for taking photos in dark rooms, as at Khochar and for
seeing clearly the caves, as at Dira-phuk, Zuthul-phuk, and other
places. 28. Maximum and Minimum Thermometer. 29. Centigrade Thermometer
for measuring temperatures of thermal springs. 30. One portable aneroid
barometer. 31. Some toys, soaps, mirrors, cigarettes, and other petty
presents to servants, horse-men, and to the monks of the monasteries.
32.
Dried vegetables. 33. Spices, pickles, chutneys, tamarind, dried mango
pieces, etc. 34. Dry fruits - grapes, kismis, dates, almonds, etc.
35. Tea, ovaltine, condensed milk, milk-powder, corn-flakes, the sweets
of bal (made of evapourated milk with a little sugar) and chocolates
of Almora, biscuits, lemon-drops, lozenges, sweetto, sugar-cubes,
sugar-candy, etc. 36. Stationery, papers, pencils, pens, ink-bottles,
postage-stamps, envelopes, cards, needles and thread, etc., a copy
of the Bhagvad-Gita and copy of Bhajans. 37. Spring-balance which
can weigh up to 100 lbs. - for weighing luggage at different stages.
38. 3 or 4 empty hydrogen peroxide bottles or some other strong bottles
with good corks for bringing the Holy waters of Kailas, Manasarovar,
Gauri-kund, and Tirthapuri hot springs. 39. 1 Pair of double-panniers
(two thick bags tied together) for each person - for keeping eatables
and other miscellaneous articles to be placed on the riding-pony.
40. Camphor, dhup, sopari, agarbatti, wicks soaked in ghee, vermillion,
cardamom, and sundry articles which the pilgrim might choose to carry.
Briefs on
holy Places
Kedarnath, Badrinath, Joshimath, Kailas-Manasarovar, Gangotri
Kedarnath
Amidst the dramatic mountainscapes of the majestic Kedarnath range
stands one of the twelve 'Jyotirlings' of Kedar or Lord Shiv. Lying
at an altitude of 11,758 ft. on the head of river Mandakini, the shrine
of Kedarnath is amongst the holiest pilgrimages for the Hindus.
The origin of the revered temple can be found in the great epic -
Mahabharat. According to legend, the Pandavas sought the blessings
of Lord Shiv to atone their sins after the battle of Mahabharat. Lord
Shiv eluded them repeatedly and while fleeing took refuge at Kedarnath
in the form of a bull. On being followed, he dived into the ground,
leaving behind his hump on the surface. This conical protrusion is
worshipped as the Jyotirling murti in the shrine. The remaining portions
of Lord Shiv are worshipped at four other places - the arms (bahu)
at Tungnath, mouth (mukh) at Rudranath, navel (nabhi) at Madmaheshwar
and hair (jata) at Kalpeshwar. Together with Kedarnath, these places
are known as the Panch Kedar.
The present Kedarnath mandir, built in 800 AD by Adi Guru Shankaracharya
lies adjacent to the site of an ancient temple built by the Pandavas.
The walls of the exquisitely architectured mandir are embellished
with figures of deities and scenes from mythology. The mandir has
a conical lingam - the main idol, a statue of Nandi - the celestial
bull, a 'garbha grah' for assemblies of pilgrims and visitors. The
mandir is believed to be more than 1,000 years old.
Kedarnath is 234 km from Rishikesh.
Badrinath
Badrinath is considered the holiest of the four shrines in Garhwal.
The town is at an altitude of 10,272 ft. above sea level, situated
on the left bank of river Alaknanda and exactly between the two mountains
of Nara and Narayan. The shrine is dedicated to Bhagwan Vishnu.
The present mandir was built about two
centuries ago by Garhwal Kings. It is a conical structure, 49 ft.
tall and has small cupola of a gilt bull and spire. There are 15 murtis
in the mandir complex, each sculpted in black stone. The principal
murti represents Vishnu, called Badrinath, in a meditative posture
and is flanked by Nara-Narayan. Legend dates it prior to the Vedic
age though it is believed to have been re-established by Adi Shankaracharya,
an important Hindu saint in 8th century A.D. Some of the other images
include Lakshmi (Vishnu's consort), Garud (Vishnu's mount) Shiv and
Parvati and Ganesh.
On the route to Badrinath there is a pilgrimage place called Pandukeshwar
where the Pandavas are believed to have been born. Bhagwan Vishnu
is believed to have done his austerities at this place.
Joshimath
The winter home of Shri Badrinathji is situated on the slopes above
the confluence of Alaknanda and Dhaulitganga. It is one of the four
'maths' established by Adi Guru Shankaracharya. It is approximately
44 km from Badrinath.
Kailas-Manasarovar
Mount Kailas
Mt. Kailas, the abode of Lord Shiv and goddess Parvati, is one of
the highest mountains in Tibet at 22,022 feet. The Buddhists, the
Jains and the Bonpas of Tibet too, all revere this spot with great
fervour and devotion.
For Hindus, Mt. Kailas is the earthly manifestation of Mt. Meru, the
spiritual centre of the universe around which all else revolves. Kailas-Manasarovar
is 865-kms from Delhi.
Manasarovar
Manasarovar is 30 km southeast of Mt. Kailas. The lake was where the
sons of Brahma performed austerities. At their request Brahma created
it from his mind so that they could bathe and purify
(Contd. p. 40)
(Contd. from p. 37)
themselves for their daily oblations and rituals.
Gangotri
Couched in the magnificent Garhwal hills, Gangotri, the origin of
river Ganga, is at an altitude of 10,000 ft. above sea level. It is
on the northernmost part of the state of Uttar Pradesh and is very
near the Indo-Tibetan border.
It
is approximately 300 km from Dehradun, 250 km from Rishikesh and 105
km from Uttarkashi. Gangotri is 18 km further north of Gaumukh. The
summers are relatively cool and winters are freezing cold, with rains
in the months of May and June. For the devotees and tourists, the
gates of the temple are open only in the months of May to November.